Method for producing tubular knitwear items and products obtained thereby

ABSTRACT

The invention relates to tubular knitwear item provided with suitable openings (H) or holes automatically obtained for shoulder straps, neck portions, belts, strings, stripes, knots, loops and the like, i.e. for various applications and purposes, such as anatomic support, and for aesthetic and functional connections also with other manufactured items. The invention co-ordinates the suitable needle selection according to the jacquard design and to the work cycle of the knitting machine and enable, for definite fabric areas and needles (A), the temporary stop of the knitting process and the subsequent stitch discharge, followed by the production of new fabric stitches, also with needle discard and floating yarns (FF) so as to obtain transparent effects and the production of fringes.

TECHNICAL FIELD

The introduction of “full electronic” circular knitting machines withdifferentiated diameters has attracted the knitting industry's interestsince their versatility allows to produce a wide range of tubular items,such as for instance bras, brassieres, pants, dresses, trousers,“fuseaux” (tight trousers), skirts, teddies, swimsuits, technical itemsand more. But due to some inherent technical and textile limitations,such as for instance the lack of shoulder straps, belts, loops, strings,ribbons and various openings, most of the aforementioned knitwear itemssystematically require laborious and expensive additional finishingoperations such as cutting and sewing, with the subsequent fabric scrapswhich affect production costs extensively and permanently. As isgenerally known, Italian patent no. 1288310 provides for variousembodiments concerning the production of shoulder straps, loops orbraces, or various openings for legs and arms; these solutions, however,show technical difficulties and additional costs due to the complexmechanisms involving fabric pick-up and transport from one side of theneedle cylinder to the other side.

AIMS OF THE PRESENT INVENTION

The present invention aims at reducing to a significant extent or atwholly eliminating the aforesaid technical and productive limitations,so as to automatically obtain semi-finished or finished tubular knitwearitems, i.e. provided with shoulder straps, rings, holes, loops, ribbonsand fabric stripes with original productive, technical, aesthetic andcommercial purposes.

All this stated, a main aim of the present invention consists inproviding a method for producing tubular items, also shaped or fitted,provided with one or more holes or openings, also quite wide, in asingle or double-layer knitted fabric (1), said items beingautomatically produced by the suitable selection and presence of theelements directly or indirectly involved in the knitting process, suchas for instance jacks, needles, under-needles and sinkers.

A further aim consists in providing said tubular items with one or moreshoulder straps, automatically produced by the suitable selection andpresence of the aforesaid elements directly or indirectly involved inthe knitting process.

An additional aim consists in providing a method and apparatus forproducing said tubular items provided with at least a fabric half-ring,preferably introduced into one or more holes of said item and used forthe aesthetic and functional connection with a separate item.

Another aim consists in providing a method and apparatus for producingitems provided with one or more separate loops or fabric stripes, whichare connected to the knitted tube only on their ends, also with theirfloating yarns only, the latter being automatically produced by thesuitable presence or absence of needles.

A further aim consists in providing said tubular items with one or morezones of lighter and more transparent fabric automatically produced bythe suitable selection and presence of the elements directly orindirectly involved in the knitting process. Further aims will beevident from the description, examples and accompanying drawings, per seor in combination, beyond the final claims.

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

The above mentioned aims are substantially achieved by a method forproducing tubular knitwear items by discharging and taking up singlestitches following a given pattern, also with needle discard andfloating yarns, and products obtained thereby, according to the appendedclaims.

The characteristics of the invention and the advantages resultingthereof will be more evident from the following non limiting descriptionof embodiments provided by way of example, which can be advantageouslyapplied to most circular knitting machines.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

The description will be made with reference to the accompanying drawingsin which:

FIG. 1 shows a brassiere produced according to the prior art;

FIG. 2 shows a knitted item produced according to the present invention;

FIGS. 3 and 4 show the evolution of a knitted tube gradually taking onthe appearance and functions of a brassiere provided with holes H,shoulder straps, neck portion GC and floating yarns FF producedaccording to the invention;

FIG. 5 shows another embodiment of a brassiere;

FIG. 6 shows a portion of knitted tube provided with holes H necessaryfor the introduction and use of a string L;

FIG. 7 shows a portion of knitted tube similar to the portion in FIG. 6,provided with a double welt;

FIGS. 8 and 8 a show two steps of the production of a collar withtwo-layer welts DB obtained from an initial knitted tube TM;

FIG. 9 shows a dress provided with a collar and a lace L inserted inopenings H;

FIG. 10 shows a fabric with a central zone having floating yarns FF;

FIGS. 10 a, 10 b and 10 c graphically show a jersey fabric interruptedby different applications of floating yarns FF, variously manipulatedand knitted;

FIG. 11 technically show the mechanical-textile diagrams, i.e. thesequences to be followed in the production of the three-dimensional knitfrills Bi;

FIG. 12 is a front view of a fabric having frills Bi made only with oddneedles AD, with even needles AP not operating;

FIG. 12 a shows a needle A, usually housed within a bed or cylinder, onwhose stem the underlying fabric and the inner frill Bi are stillengaged;

FIG. 13 shows a missing stitch W and a single “bridle” BR within aknitted structure;

FIG. 14 is a perspective view of needles starting the sequences for theproduction of knit frills Bi, by weaving a single “bridle”;

FIG. 15 is a technical key for the pattern of FIG. 11;

FIG. 16 is a plan view of a portion of cylinder CYL with the hook U of aneedle and an adjacent latch-opening device AL;

FIG. 17 is a side view of a needle A and a latch-opening device AL;

FIGS. 18, 19 and 20 are a sequence of lateral views of needles A andsinkers PM during the discharge of the last fabric stitches B;

FIG. 21 shows the rear portion of a knitted item with fabric stripes 51alternated with broad empty zones;

FIG. 22 shows another embodiment of the item of FIG. 21, with thinnerfabric zones 11 alternated with empty zones;

FIG. 23 shows the front portion of a manufactured item with a centralzone of various mesh knitted stitches;

FIGS. 24 and 25 are front views of two different embodiments of amanufactured item provided with a lighter fabric zone SA;

FIG. 26 shows a dress provided with holes H and a lighter fabric zoneSA;

FIG. 27 is a front view of a dress with fabric stripes 11 alternatedwith broad empty zones,

FIGS. 28 and 29 are sectioned lateral schematic views of twomanufactured items 1 provided with a usual front portion and a backportion with fabric stripes alternated to empty zones;

FIGS. 30, 32 and 33 shows different embodiments of compound manufactureditems consisting of separate knitwear items 1 and 21 structurally andfunctionally connected to each other with one or more rings 9.

FIG. 31 shows another embodiment of a compound knitted item consistingof two separate knitwear items connected with a fabric connection 8;

FIG. 34 shows a knitted item 1 made with particular effects of needlediscard and floating yarns FF;

FIG. 35 shows a stocking made with the same technique used for the itemof FIG. 34;

FIG. 36 is an enlarged view of a ring element 9 consisting of twohalf-rings fitting one into the other;

FIG. 37 shows a ring 9 provided with an oscillating lever;

FIG. 38 shows a panty provided with wide openings H which form a fabricstripe 50 with two ends provided with floating yarns FF;

FIG. 38 a shows the item of FIG. 38 with the floating yarns which havebeen cut and the edges of the stripe joined with a knot K;

FIG. 38 b shows a panty with decreasing floating yarns FF and an openingH.

FIG. 39 shows another knitted item provided with an opening and adjacentfloating yarns;

FIG. 40 shows a knitted item with a neck portion GC having a zone FFwith floating yarns;

FIG. 40 a shows the item of FIG. 40 in which the floating yarns havebean cut and the neck portion has been knotted;

FIG. 41 shows a knitted item with a central opening obtained by aplurality of floating yarns which have been cut;

FIG. 42 shows a tubular knitwear item consisting of an upper and lowerportion 1 and 21 partially joined by a knitted belt P-P1 placed on thehips;

FIG. 43 shows the item of FIG. 42 with the edges of the knitted beltwhich have been cut and knotted.

DESCRIPTION OF THE ILLUSTRATIVE EMBODIMENTS

The following description will be carried out, with descriptive andnon-limiting purposes only, with reference to a circular knittingmachine for producing tubular knitted items in general comprising atleast: a needle bed or rotary cylinder versus fixed cams or vice versa;a complete working feed, provided with one or more yarn feeders whichcan also be moving; preferably electronic needle selection forcontrolling the elements involved in the knitting process according to awork cycle and/or a jacquard design; knitting cams which can also beindividually adjusted via computer; a device for opening needle latchesupon actuation; a fabric pulling or suction system. The machine is alsoequipped with a dial provided with selectable needles or jacks, beyondthe usual yarn suction and cutting device. Advantageously the knittingmachine is provided with at least two needle or jack beds for producingdouble welts, provided inside also with floating or partially wovenyarns so as to stiffen the dimensional stability in the direction of theknitted courses, thus preferably obtaining three-dimensional welts withcircular section. In particular most of the following descriptionrelates to a “full electronic” single-cylinder circular machine, such asfor instance Santoni SM8. In the example taken from the prior art shownin FIG. 1, the traditional breast band or brassiere 1 consists of thejersey fabric MJ delimited by the usual upper two-layer elastic band 2and lower two-layer elastic band 3. The shoulder straps SS and SD arefirst produced and then undergo a cutting-sewing operation. In a firstpreferred embodiment the invention is firstly carried out by preparing awork cycle or jacquard design, i.e. direct inputs to needles or jacks orother elements directly or indirectly involved in the knitting process,by means of a graphics workstation or other control and memory devices,i.e. by means of electro-mechanical, magnetic and optical apparatus, orother means suitable to said purpose. During its production, which canindifferently start from the aforesaid band 2 or 3, the manufactureditem 1 of FIG. 2 is generally modified according to the presentinvention both by creating individual holes H, variously placed, and bydetaching a suitable number of successive stitches in the direction ofthe courses, usually less than 360° of the needle cylinder. In thespecific case the detachment of the above-mentioned stitches takesplaces on the arrows F and F1 around the needle cylinder, but for thefront portion corresponding to the broader central hole H1 of FIG. 2. Inpractice the almost complete detachment of the upper band 2, which hasjust been manufactured, can take place in at least two ways: by means ofa special thermo-soluble yarn used in specific areas, which totally orpartially melts during the hot fixing stage; or preferably bytemporarily cancelling all feeds, by excluding the yarn feeders and bysubsequently temporarily stopping the production cycle. Now, accordingto the jacquard design and to the work cycle, only the needlespreviously programmed, which are grouped and placed adjacently in thespecific case, are selected again and sent to at least a yarn-freeascending cam (not shown) so that they can be completely raised. Themaximum raising of these needles results in two important situations:all their latches L automatically open and place themselves over thelast stitches B, which are still laid in the needles, such as 1-3 inFIG. 14.

The following descent stage of said needles is shown in FIGS. 18-19-20.

The needle A of FIG. 18 begins its descent and the last stitch B, placedclose against the stem of said needle, gets under the latch L and startsto close the latter automatically and progressively. If the needledescent goes on, said latches will be completely closed, FIG. 19, andwill work as “bridges” for said stitches B, which are then definitelydetached, as in FIG. 20. Simultaneously, also the fabric sinkers PM getback progressively and radially following arrow F, synchronously withthe descent movement of the needles A. According to the invention theprogressive discharge of said stitches B from the concerned needlespreferably takes place after the production of one or more previousknitted courses made of non-run fabric MI, FIG. 2, i.e. textilestructures characterised by the simultaneous presence of normalstitches, tuck stitches and welts, said terms being known to peopleskilled in the art. As a matter of fact, in order to avoid unwantedruns, it is provided for a textile preparation stage according to whichthe last knitted courses produced before the last knitted course orwaste W, FIG. 3, are characterised by knitted structures, alsotwo-layer, mesh or non-run fabric, with variable thicknesses which areelectronically controlled via a computer by the corresponding motorizedknitting cams (not shown), together with the optional use of suitableyarns, for instance thermo-adhesive yarns, or anyhow melting graduallyinterlacing with the adjacent stitches. In this operating stage thetotal discharge of the fabric from the programmed needles causes withinthe knitted tube a horizontal continuous opening in the direction of thecourses, which then foams a fabric hole or semi-ring (2 and GC, in FIG.3) only partially connected with the manufactured item according totechnical and productive contingent variables.

According to the invention, since the manufacturing process shouldnecessarily be re-started, the needles which are now disengaged andtemporarily fabric-free are selected and progressively directed onto atleast an ascending cam following pre-defined selection sequences such asfor instance 1:6 (or 1:3, an operating needles and three excludedneedles) and 1:1, so that on the basis of technical-textile featuresfirst all needles and/or only half of the disengaged needles, the oddones afterwards for instance, take up the new yarn again to re-startknitting in at least a feed, for the production of a hem or double welt,or two-layer welt, such as Bi in FIG. 12. At the beginning of the ascentthe needles which are still disengaged and with still closed latches Lfind on their obligatory path a latch-opening device AL which forcedlyopens said latches. The described procedure is schematically describedin FIG. 17: the latch L is still against the jack of the needle U intowhich a latch-opening metal tip AL is automatically placed, operatinguntil the latch L is opened and overturned in the direction of arrow F.FIG. 16 is a plan view of a portion of the cylinder CYL rotating in thedirection of the arrow F, with the jack of the needle U against whichthe latch L and the adjacent latch-opening device AL are placed. Thejack or hook U of the needle, adhering to the latch L, finds on itsobligatory ascending path the latch-opening device L, which has beenintroduced to this specific purpose.

Once the needle latches have been opened as previously described (inother embodiments the latch is opened by means of a suitable intake ofcompressed air coming from above, or by means of a thin plate insertedbetween the jack and the latch), the knitting process starts again.According to the present invention the second knitting cycle re-startsboth with a single and with a double welt such as BD in FIGS. 2-3-4 bythe fixed selection of alternated needles such as Bi in FIG. 12. Inorder to obtain different aesthetic and commercial results, the knittingprocess can also be re-started in a different way, i.e. with a number ofneedles which has been greatly reduced with respect to normalconditions, the so-called needle discard, so as to produce one or morezones made of thinner, lighter and more transparent fabric with respectto the adjacent one, said zones being generically indicated with SA inFIGS. 24-25-26.

The best results can usually be obtained by excluding for a relativelylong period a suitable number of needles since the beginning of theknitting process, though taking suitable precautions, satisfying resultscan also be obtained in other positions of the manufactured item,provided that the stitches are suitably discharged by the needles whichhave to be disengaged from the knitting process.

The above-described technique therefore allows to produce almost inevery part of the manufactured item the holes generally indicated withH, having different purposes. In FIG. 3, the fabric ring or neck portionGC, only partially connected with the underlying knitted tube 1, ispreferably and successively introduced into the central hole H-H1following arrows F until it takes on the shape and functions of the neckportion GC in FIG. 4.

By suitably coordinating the width of the aforesaid hole H1 withsuitable stitch structures of the jersey fabric JO in the central zoneCA and around the breast, which is produced with expressly larger fabricMA, said neck portion GC in FIG. 4 also has functions of anatomicsupport of the breast zone. A variation of the described technique isshown in FIG. 5: in the specific case the double-welt bands, referred toin FIG. 2 with numerals 2 and 3, which were first clearly separated fromthe knitted tube 1, are then introduced one into the other to obtainoriginal combinations and aesthetic and functional connections which canalso apply to other cases beyond the example shown.

As far as FIG. 3 is concerned, according to the invention the zonebetween the breasts is widely characterised by a plurality of floatingyarns FF, placed directly under the opening H, having aesthetic andfunctional purposes; said floating yarns can also be partially knit, asindicated in FIGS. 10 b and 10 c. In the specific case, the width ofsaid floating yarns FF gradually decreases because of the progressiveprogramed introduction of the disengaged needles into the knittingcycle. Generally the presence of the holes H, different in their widthand arrangement, has a high relevance in the manifold embodiments of thepresent invention; for instance, if suitably arranged near the singlewelt BS of the knitted tube 1 of FIG. 6, they enable the introductionand use of at least a string L with interesting aesthetic and commercialresults; indeed, if the various possible embodiments are considered, itis possible to obtain according to the circumstances: a collar, the endof a sleeve or leg, the belt of a pair of pants or trousers, the neck ofa bag or rucksack or a technical item. FIG. 7 shows a combinationsimilar to the previous one, which refers, however, to a knitted tubewhose end has a double or two-layer welt DB; the two close holes Hproduced according to the invention enable the subsequent introductionof the string L to the above-described purposes. FIG. 9 shows a dress 1which has been expressly provided with a series of applications andembodiments falling within the framework of the invention, among whichthe various strings L and the holes H placed in the central and lowerportion of the manufactured item, whereas FIGS. 8 and 8 a show anenlarged view of the upper portion on the neck, indicated with Bi and C.

In this case the portions of single welt BS and BS1 of the knitted tubeTM are alternated with two opposite fabric zones with two layers ordouble welt DB, preferably produced using only the alternated needlesfollowing the patterns of FIGS. 11-12. In practice, the outer edges ofFIG. 8 a will be sewn following the arrows F; as a consequence thehalf-welts of the central portion Bi, if placed one beside the other,form a kind of complete and finished collar with two opposite layers,such as Bi in FIG. 12.

The drawings shows a detailed view of other embodiments falling withinthe framework of the present invention. FIG. 21 shows the rear portionof a knitted item 1 characterised by fabric zones 51 whose double weltsSD are the same as the welts Bi previously described; said knitted zones51 are alternated with broad empty zones E produced with the describedtechnique providing for the programmed discharge of stitches in thedirection of the courses. In FIG. 22 the analogous horizontal knittedstripes 11 are quite thin with respect to the preceding ones 51.

FIG. 23 shows the front portion of the manufactured item 1,characterised by the central zone of various mesh knitted stitches MO(needle selection 1:1-2:1-2:2 and the like), whose purpose is to fosterthe expansion of the adjacent breast areas manufactured with largerfabric MA. The manufactured items variously represented in FIGS.24-25-26 are further characterized by fabric zones with needle discardSA, which are substantially different with respect to the adjacentfabric since they are more transparent and lighter to aesthetic andcommercial purposes. In particular, the shoulder straps SS-SD areobtained by partially detaching the front portion of the welt BD,which—if raised following the direction of the arrows F (FIGS. 27-28),takes on the final position DB1 behind the user's neck. The holesindicated with H in the various figures, beyond indicating the needlesout or in daring the knitting process, can also have an aesthetic andfunctional purpose if suitably arranged. FIGS. 28 and 29 show asectioned and schematic view of a manufactured item 1 generally providedwith a front portion but quite open on the back, a so-called “top” withnaked shoulders. At present, as is generally known, such textile itemsare manufactured with several weaving, cutting, sewing operations withcorresponding scraps. According to the invention such a knitted item,almost finished and complete, is manufactured directly in the machineand without scraps. In practice, the upper shoulder straps DB1 areobtained by partially detaching the upper two-layer welt DB describedabove. The knitting process can be taken up again in various ways: withthe rolled-up single welts BSA, or with the described method concerningtwo-layer edges Bi technically shown in FIGS. 11 and 12, and finallywith a double fabric manufactured by means of a part of the dial jacksor needles, preferably for about 180°, or another needle bed, using onlypartially the technique used to manufacture the so-called double welt orelastic band for hosiery items, said terms being known to people skilledin the art.

FIG. 28 shows a sectioned and schematic view of the manufactured item 1,characterised by three different combinations concerning the productionof openings on the shoulders and corresponding fabric stripes 20-22-23having respectively:

-   -   the rolled-up single welts BSA;    -   the two-layer welt Bi;    -   the double welt DB obtained by means of the jacks or needles or        other needle bed.

Among the aims of the present invention there is also the substantialmodification of the textile connection of each end of the various fabricstripes 20-22-23 and others such as 11 in FIG. 22, with the knitted tube1. According to the invention the single stitches are replaced by aplurality of variously floating yarns, such as for instance those shownin table 2, FIGS. 10 to 10 c included, or such as FFL-FFI-FFT in FIG.28.

This result can easily be achieved by delaying a suitable number ofneedles at the beginning and at the end of each course produced afterthe stitch discharge necessary to obtain the wide openings whichconstitute an object of the invention, or by temporarily eliminatingfrom the knitting process, for a variable number of courses, groups ofneedles, with the described technique of needle discard in definitezones.

The invention also relates to the structural stiffening of thehorizontal fabric stripe produced by means of the dial needles or jacks(DB FIG. 28 and BD2 FIG. 29), with the additional introduction of one ormore variously floating yarns, which can also be of different nature andcolour, knitted on their ends only, such as FF within BD2 in FIG. 29,which shows two different ways to obtain the neck portion or shoulderstraps of the manufactured item 1: the initial double welt DB ispartially separated from the knitted tube and raised at choice fromopposite initial positions according to the arrows F-F1, to take oneither final configurations DB1. In the aforesaid FIG. 29 the frontportion of the manufactured item 1 is characterised among other thingsby areas of larger fabric MA, anatomically shaped and therefore morecomfortable. By the way, the manufactured item 1 can also be producedwith two symmetrical wastes such as W-W1 by starting indifferently fromeach end of the knitted tube. Other embodiments within the framework ofthe present invention are shown in the drawings. FIGS. 30-31-32 and 33show some knitwear items assembled, produced and completed according tothe teachings of the invention.

In FIG. 30 the manufactured item 1, characterised by the neck portion GCand by the detached welt 30, is connected by means of a ring 9 (oranother similar mean) with the underlying manufactured item 21, i.e. apant characterised by the single or double welt 31, which can also beelastic, and by a large central zone of thinner fabric with needlediscard SA. FIG. 31 shows another manufactured item consisting of twoseparate items, 1 and 21. The upper portion 1 is a breast band orbrassiere which, differently from the example from the prior art of FIG.1, is provided with the single upper shoulder strap S obtained bypartial separation of the upper welt DB, which is technically the sameand repeated also on the lower welt 30, within which the fabric ring 8is connected, said ring being produced by almost complete separation ofthe upper welt DB2 of the manufactured item 21. The compoundmanufactured item 1-21 of FIG. 32 is further characterised in that theupper portion is provided with two crossed shoulder straps SI, whereasthe connection between the single items 1 and 21 is carried out by meansof two rings 9 placed on the hips.

FIG. 33 shows a different embodiment of the compound manufactured item;the upper portion 1 is provided with single shoulder straps SS and SDand with holes H placed in the breast central zone. Also in thisembodiment the aesthetic-functional connection between the singleknitwear items 1 and 21 is obtained by partial detachment of the welts30 and 31, which are then joined by means of the element 9, in anenlarged view in the following FIGS. 36 and 37. In the first case, FIG.36, said ring consists of two half-rings fitting one into the other,whereas FIG. 37 shows a ring with oscillating lever, a so-called springring. As is evident, different technical and textile combinations arepossible on the basis of specific economic or fashion situations. As faras the manufacture of items characterized by one or more zones ofthinner fabric produced according to the invention is concerned, FIG. 34shows a detail concerning the manufactured item 1 (which canindifferently be a sleeve, stocking, collar, welt and the like) producedfrom the beginning 15 with a reduced number of operating needles, whichare clearly separated from broad zones of floating yarns FF, which canpossible be of different colour, nature and count.

The single stitches, which are far wider, are placed so as to form ribsof thin fabric CR and give an initial cup effect 15, which can then beused in an overturned position 15 a, to obtain further transparenteffects on the underlying full-rib fabric CP. H indicates the holesproduced by the new needles starting work. The same technique applied toa stocking for another manufactured item) causes the effect shown inFIG. 35; the stocking 1 starts from the toe (or indifferently from thewelt), with the needles N at quite a great distance one from the otherand joined by floating yarns FF, which can be of different colour,nature and count.

The present invention is further carried out by the embodiments shown intable 5. The manufactured item 1 of FIG. 38 is characterised in that ithas 4 wide openings or holes H which form a fabric stripe 50 with twoends provided with floating yarns FF, which are then cut along thedirection of F and produces two fabric edges provided with fringes FR.

The edges of the stripe 50 are then joined with the knot K shown in FIG.38 a; variations producing diagonal or vertical stripes and knots areobviously possible. In FIG. 38 b the pants 1 are strongly characterisedby the wide front opening H under which several floating yarns FF areplaced in decreasing order so as to improve the aesthetic and commercialvalue of the manufactured item.

The technique concerning the presence and different functions and theuse of floating yarns produced according to the invention is proposedagain in FIG. 39; the central portion of the manufactured item 1contains a horizontal opening H followed, according to the productioncycle, by a thick plurality of floating yarns FF, produced by thetemporary absence of some needles after obtaining the opening H.

The different position of the aforesaid floating yarns produces theoriginal results shown on FIGS. 40 and 40 a. The production of themanufactured item 1 starts from the neck portion GC or double welt DB;simultaneously an appropriate number of needles within the cylinder isinitially excluded from the knitting process so as to produce as analternative the floating yarns FF: Said neck portion is separatedaccording to the techniques described above, i.e. by the programmeddetachment of consecutive needles, and is only partially connected withthe knitted tube being worked. The following cutting operation of saidfloating yarns along the arrow F produces two fabric edges which,preferably knotted as K in FIG. 40 a, can be used as singular foulard,scarf or other similar decoration provided, in the specific case withfringes FR. The knitwear item 1 of FIG. 41 is characterised by acontinuous presence of floating yarns produced in the central zone. Theknitted tube 1 is produced by the total and continuous exclusion of someneedles on the front portion of the tubular item. Said exclusion resultsin the plurality of overlapping floating yarns FF. Said floating yarnsare then preferably cut in the direction of the arrow F with thesubsequent opening of the manufactured item and the production ofvertical welts characterised by fringes of different length produced bysaid cut yarns. Finally, FIGS. 42 and 43 show the stages of productionof another manufactured item produced according to the invention: ageneric garment or swimsuit 1 provided with an upper portion 1structurally connected with the lower portion 21 by means of the reducedfront portion which reaches the back with the belt P-P1 and is then cuton the back portion. It can also consists only of floating yarns and itstwo ends P-P1 are preferably knotted on the front portion following thedirection of the arrows P and F1 thus forming the knot K. The details ofexecution can equally vary as far as shape, dimensions and/orarrangement are concerned, and also for the nature of the technicaland/or textile materials used, though always falling within theframework of aims of the present patent.

1. Method for automatically producing three-dimensional tubular knitwearitems, in circular knitting machines provided with at least acylindrical needlebed (CYL), characterised in that it comprises thesteps of: inactivating and excluding from the knitting process at leasta predetermined number of adjacent needles (A) of the needlebed (CYL),chosen in at least a defined knit area of the needlebed (CYL), for apredetermined time interval and producing, with the remaining workingneedles (A) of the needlebed (CYL) and with the continuous motion of theneedlebed (CYL), a first length of tubular knitted fabric (1) having anannular shape and having a plurality of floating yarns (FF) in a zone ofthe knitted item (1) corresponding to said defined area of the needlebed(CYL), said zone of the knitted item (1) being provided to constitute azone of the final knitted item (1) characterized by the presence of saidfloating yarns (FF) having aesthetic and/or functional purposes. 2.Method according to claim 1 characterised in that at least a part ofsaid predetermined number of needles (A) is inactivated automaticallyand progressively.
 3. Method according to claim 1 characterised in thatit further comprises, before said step of inactivating and excludingfrom the knitting process at least a predetermined number of adjacentneedles (A), the step of producing a second length of tubular knittedfabric (1), said predetermined number of needles (A) completelyreleasing and discharging the corresponding loops of the knitted fabric(1) during said step of inactivating and excluding from the knittingprocess said predetermined number of adjacent needles (A), whereby atleast an opening (H) is produced between said second length and saidfirst length of the knitted item (1), in a zone corresponding to saiddefined knit area.
 4. Method according to claim 1 characterised in thatit further comprises the steps of reintroducing said predeterminednumber of needles (A) in the knitting process after said predeterminedtime interval corresponding to a plurality of stitch courses, by anautomatic and programmed resumption of knitting on said predeterminednumber of needles (A), and producing, after said first length of knittedfabric (1), a third length of tubular knitted fabric (1).
 5. Methodaccording to claim 1 characterised in that it further comprises the stepof cutting said floating yarns (FF), in a phase subsequent to theknitting process of the knitted item (1), to obtain in said zone of theknitted item an opening (H) with fabric edges provided with fringes ofvariable length.
 6. Method according to claim 3 characterised in that itfurther comprises the steps of: reintroducing said predetermined numberof needles (A) in the knitting process immediately after said step ofinactivating and excluding from the knitting process at least apredetermined number of adjacent needles (A) of the needlebed (CYL), byan automatic and programmed resumption of knitting on said predeterminednumber of needles (A), and resuming the knitting process with both theexcluded needles (A) and the remaining needles (A) and producing a thirdlength of tubular knitted fabric (1), thus providing at least an opening(H) in the knitted item (1) between said second and said third length ofknitted fabric (1), in said defined area of the needlebed (CYL)corresponding to the excluded needles (A), with a controlled partialseparation of two theoretically consecutive stitch courses.
 7. Methodaccording to claim 6 characterised in that the dimension of said definedknit area is determined in order to obtain an opening (H) defining insaid item at least a fabric stripe, loop, shoulder strap or brace. 8.Method according to claim 3, further comprising the step of providingsaid shoulder straps, braces and/or openings (H) with hemmed fabric andwith at least a single or double layer welt (BD), said welt beingproduced with the needles (A) of the cylindrical needlebed (CYL) and bymeans of a second needlebed or dial.
 9. Method according to claim 3,further comprising the step of providing said shoulder straps, bracesand/or openings (H) with hemmed fabric and with at least a single ordouble layer welt (BD), said welt being produced with the needles (A) ofthe cylindrical needlebed (CYL) by producing inner frills (Bi) with afixed and prolonged selection of alternated needles (A).
 10. Methodaccording to claim 4 characterised in that at least a part of saidpredetermined number of needles (A) is reintroduced in the knittingprocess progressively.
 11. Method according to claim 1 characterised inthat said predetermined number of needles (A) excluded from the knittingprocess are chosen in at least two defined and separate knit areas ofthe needlebed (CYL).
 12. Method according to claim 1 in which said stepof inactivating and excluding from the knitting process at least apredetermined number of adjacent needles (A) of the needlebed (CYL)comprises the steps of interrupting the knitting process with all theneedles (A) of the needlebed (CYL) in non-working position and all theyarn-feeders excluded and releasing the loops of the knitted fabric (1)engaged to said predetermined number of excluded needles (A), while theremaining needles (A) of the needlebed (CYL) retain their loops ofknitted fabric (1).
 13. Method according to claim 1, comprisingproviding automatically said items with one or more shoulder straps,loops, braces and/or holes (H), eyelets and/or floating yarns (FF),operating with the continuous motion of the needle cylinder and by thetemporary and gradual interruption of the knitting process for a groupof preferably adjacent needles (A), in definite fabric areas, less than360°, followed by the automatic and gradual re-start of the knittingprocess, preferably with the same needles (A) or in the same definitefabric areas, after the intervention of mechanical or pneumatic elementsworking as latch-opening devices (AL) for the controlled separation oftwo knitted courses which are theoretically consecutive and alsopartially overlapping; said courses being characterised in that one ofthem represents the last course of knitted fabric (1) and the other onethe first course produced after said interruption, said openings (1)and/or loops being obtained without cutting and sewing operations. 14.Method according to claim 13 for producing tubular items which can alsobe shaped or fitted, provided with one or more holes or openings (H)which can also be very broad, automatically produced by the appropriateselection, presence and absence of the elements directly or indirectlyinvolved in the knitting process, such as jacks, needles (A),under-needles (A) and fabric sinkers (PM).
 15. Method according to claim1 characterised in that it comprises the steps of providingautomatically said tubular items with one or more fabric rings, loops orhalf-rings at least partially connected with the manufactured item (1),and introducing or connecting at least partially said fabric rings in atleast a hole or other opening (H) of the manufactured item (1). 16.Method according to claim 1 characterised in that it comprises the stepsof providing automatically said tubular items with one or more fabricrings, loops or half-rings at least partially connected with themanufactured item (1), and introducing or connecting at least partiallysaid fabric rings in at least a hole or other opening (H) of anotherknitted article or textile manufactured item (21).
 17. Method accordingto claim 1 comprising producing in said tubular items an anatomicallyshaped portion and a substantially naked portion having wide aperturesalternated to suitable fabric swipes, preferably provided with single ordouble hems or welts (DB).
 18. Method according to claim 7 characterisedin that at least a portion of said fabric stripes (11,51) is producedwith a plurality of floating yarns (FF).
 19. Method according to claim 7further comprising the steps of cutting said fabric stripes or loops andpreferably subsequently knotting said stripes.
 20. Method according toclaim 1 further comprising the step of producing automatically in saiditems (1) at least a zone (SA) of lighter and more transparent fabric,by knitting the item (1) with a substantially reduced number of needles(A).
 21. Method according to claim 1 for producing compound knitteditems, further comprising the step of connecting structurally andfunctionally at least two knitted items (1, 21) one to the other, bymeans of connection means such as stripes, strings or half-rings. 22.Method according to claim 1 characterised in that the knitting processof the excluded needles (A) is preceded by the intervention oflatch-opening devices (AL) and starts again only with selected needles(A) always following an alternated order, in at least a feed providedwith yarn.
 23. Method according to claim 3 characterised in that thedischarge of the stitches from part of the needles (A) is anticipated byone or more knitted courses, which can also consist of tuck stitchesand/or welts, preferably with the introduction of at least a additionalyarn, which can also be elastomeric and/or thermo-adhesive.
 24. Methodaccording to claim 3, characterised in that the discharge of thestitches from part of the needles (A) takes places by totally loweringsaid needles (A) without the new yarn, under the pulling-down plane ofthe sinkers (PM), synchronously with the radial removal of the latter.